Make your own free website on Tripod.com
brupeasant.JPG

Close up of a woman from Pieter (the elder) Bruegel's Peasant Dance. Note wide loose sleeves, very easy for movement but not so large as to get in the way. Small silver biton the point of her black partlet is possibly a hook. I have not seen this painting in person so cannot say, but it was mentionedon a costume message board some time ago. Note interesting seams at the back. In other painting these are seen unobscured by the partlet, Three seams up to the shoulder (centre back and one either side) and a horizontal seam from armpit to side back seams.
In "Medieval Costume in England and France" by Mary G Houston, there is an illustration on page 142 to a pattern on page 141 that looks to be a near ancestor of this arrangement (late 15th C). In this case though, the sleeves are tight to the arm, and she appears to have inserted another panel either side of center back (even compared to the illustration in her work). The sleeve hole is an arch with a flat bottom, not the near circle we use today, and in many of the extant garmant from the near era. The sleeve is sewn as a tube to nearly the top, which is left open. the opening is spread out and sewn to the flat part of the arch, the end of the tube to the roundedpart. Seems an elegant solution. But some paintings show these seams but also a circular seam around the arm hole.
There does appear to be a gusset uner her arm, so maybe the open part of the under arm sleeve seam is sewn to this.
Also note the buckle on her shoe.
And the lovely bright lining to her skirt. Many women in Bruegel's paintings have coloured linings to their skirts.